
Beyond idli dosa – how to order and cook Malayali food like a pro
In this new series, we help you simplify regional cuisines
A post-sadhya nap is what dreams are made of. You’re guaranteed to leave the party with a plus one – a food baby. But there’s more to Malayali food than can fit on that banana leaf.
“Star anise with beef or pork, tamarind with fish, dahi and coconut are flavour combinations that are characteristic of Malayali fare,” says Sara Nair, founder and chef, Nair on Fire – a catering service that specialises in the region’s delicacies.
“We also love our spices, the staples being saunf (aniseed), pepper, cinnamon, star anise, and jeera (cumin seeds), rai (black mustard seeds), garam masala, and curry leaves.”
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A lesser known fact about the cuisine is how it draws from Portuguese and Arabic food.
“Vegetable or chicken stew, which is a staple in any Malayali household, is inspired by its Portuguese counterpart. We add coconut milk to the continental preparation and eat it with sweet milk bread,” explains Nair.
The use of cashew nuts and varied spices was inspired by the Arabic traders who would dock at ports on the Malabar coast. “The famous Kerala biryani is a great example of the coming together of Arabic and Malayali cuisines,” she adds.
Malayali food is a vegetarian’s paradise
Another misconception that comes in the way of people experimenting with Malayali food is the myth that it’s largely non-vegetarian.
“We love our vegetables, and prepare them in a manner that retains their natural goodness. Cabbage, carrots, beans, mushrooms, yams, and lots of green leafy vegetables are what feature in our day-to-day fare,” says Nair.
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Nair also helped us with a cheatsheet to ordering Malayali food like a pro.
“Those who are not big on spicy food can order a mild curry, thoran (a vegetarian Malayali preparation), and our version of the fish fry.
“While those who do like their food spicy can gorge on mango curry, potato or yam perattu for vegetarians, and prawn and crab preparations for the non-vegetarians. Prawn and crab dishes are typically spicier than fish.
Also, if you love meat then parota with beef or pork is a must.”
If you want to try your hand at whipping up some Malayali food yourself then keep in mind that “the key is to strike the perfect balance of salty, sour and spicy elements.”
“Remember to retain the ingredients’ original flavour, don’t overdo the spices ,” adds Nair.
She also shared with us a few recipes that you can kickstart your journey with Malayali food.
Cabbage Thoran
Ingredients:
- 1 Cabbage (medium-sized and finely chopped)
- Shallots (one fistful pounded using a pestle and mortar)
- 3/4 cup coconut (grated)
- 2-3 pods of garlic
- 1/4 tsp cumin
- 3-4 green chillies
- A pinch of turmeric powder
- ½ tsp mustard seeds
- ½ tsp urad dal
- 1 sprig curry leaves
- Dried red chilli (1 broken into 2-3 pieces)
- Salt to taste
- 2 tbsp oil
Directions:
- Pound cumin seeds, garlic and green chillies, add to the grated coconut, and pulse it in the grinder for 2-3 seconds.
- Temper the oil with mustard seeds and urad dal till it splutters, and then add curry leaves and the whole red chilli.
- Then add the onions and sauté till translucent. Add the cabbage to this and sauté it for a minute or two.
- Add the coconut mixture into the cabbage and keep it covered with a flat plate so that the steam can escape from the sides.
- Reduce the flame and keep for another 3-4 minutes, remove the plate, stir it and switch off the gas. Check the crunch level of cabbage to your taste and cook longer if needed.
- Add the shredded cabbage, sauté and close and cook for a minute.
Chicken Pepper Ularthiyathu

- 1 kg chicken (cut into medium sized pieces)
- 1 pinch turmeric powder
- 4 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder
- 2 tbsp coriander powder
- 1 tbsp pepper powder
- 1 tbsp garam masala
- Mustard seeds
- 3 onions (big and sliced)
- 2-inch-long piece of ginger (chopped)
- 10 garlic cloves (chopped)
- 1 tomato (chopped into small pieces)
- 3-4 green chillis
- Curry leaves
- Salt
- Oil
Directions:
- Mix chilli powder, coriander powder, turmeric powder, garam masala, salt and little water to make a paste.
- Use paste to marinate the chicken for half an hour.
- Then cook this on medium flame. Once cooked keep aside.
- Temper the oil in another pan with mustard seeds and curry leaves. Add onions, green chilies and a salt and sauté until onions are golden brown.
- Then add the ginger, garlic, and pepper powder followed by chopped tomatoes, and cook until tomatoes are soft.
- Add the chicken to the pan and mix well. Cook for another 2 minutes with the lid on. Once mixed well, lower the flame, remove the lid, and dry roast the chicken until it completely dries out becomes brown in colour.