I could be the main character this summer if it weren't for my dry, flat hair

How to have hydrated, frizz-free locks, no matter your hair type

There are very few things a young adult looks forward to with more eagerness than payday, weekends and a good hair day. Being from Mumbai, hub of humidity and packed local trains, that last one comes by rarely. In between sweaty train rides, there’s barely any space for me to breathe, let alone my hair. And my scalp is always racing with my skin to see who will get oily faster. As much as I fancy myself a main character, prettily enjoying being out in the city, the AQI and fine dust only leave me with dry ends and flat hair.

For context, I have long, straight hair, but you wouldn’t be able to tell because it’s nearly always tucked up in a bun—not a sleek bun, a bun of defeat. When I let it down at night, I pray it’ll stay attached to my head as I brush it and listen to the dry, scratchy sound it makes.

How can my scalp be oily yet my hair feels so fried?

I’ve been recommended hot oil champi to help with the dryness, but my scalp already produces enough oil to get me on the US’ radar, taking two to three washes at a time to get it all out. And when it isn’t all rinsed out, I’m left with flat sticky hair the next day. Google tells me that my hair’s dryness could be due to a number of reasons, including exposure to pollution, swimming in chlorine water, excessive heat styling, or sun exposure—which all checks out in my case. But, perhaps most important of all, hair type.

My hairstylist agreed. There’s no one-size-fits-all for hair care, he told me. For instance, when he washes my hair, he has to first use a clarifying shampoo, but he can’t use it for my mother who has a maturing scalp and dry, wavy hair. All hair types require hydration, he said, but each requires a different approach.

While searching for answers to try to resuscitate my hair, I found some answers for all of us, regardless of our hair type. So if you are stressed about your locks and want to care for them better, keep reading.

Straight, curly or fine—no hair type will be left high and dry

For straight hair [1B, 1C]

Straight hair may seem straightforward, but it’s not always the case. For instance, mine is oily and flat from the top and frizzy from the mid to the ends. We need hydration, just not in the form of heavy oils like coconut or castor, which our grandmothers used. Our hair tends to be low-porosity, meaning the hair shaft doesn’t absorb moisture quickly, which is why products with low molecular weight, like almond oil and PGA (Poly Glutamic Acid) get through faster. They can add moisture back to our hair, making it easy to detangle, and reduce frizz.

The ideal routine

Shampoo: Hydrating shampoos are not the instinctive grab for people with oily scalps, but the overuse of clarifying shampoos can dry out your scalp causing it to produce more oil as compensation. Instead, combine the two—cleanse with a hydrating shampoo after the clarifying treatment—to benefit your scalp as well as your ends. The MoroccanOil shampoo contains argan oil which is great for hydration. However, the mask and conditioner in this line might be too heavy for straight hair and make it look greasy and flat.

Conditioner: Lightweight conditioners are perfect for supporting healthy ends while not messing with your hair’s natural volume. Tresemmé’s Hydramatrix conditioner, which has PGA (PolyGlutamic Acid), can help your hair hold on to its moisture for longer, and improve your hair strength significantly.

Serum: Packed with the benefits of avocado and grape seed oils, the Matrix Biolage SmoothProof serum provides extra nourishment even in humidity. Avocado oil is another light oil, and grapeseed oil contains vitamin E. Together they leave your hair looking lustrous and healthy, while making it easy to detangle, thus preventing breakage.

For wavy hair [2A, 2B, 2C]

Unlike straight hair, wavy or textured hair needs more hydration and the reason is simple: oils from the scalp don’t get distributed evenly when your hair has a natural curve and texture. Adding hot oil massages to your hair care routine is a good way to get in extra hydration weekly, but to maintain those results, you’ll need products like leave-in serums, masks or conditioners.

Similar to straight hair, wavy hair can also encounter an oily scalp, but it’s better to limit the use of clarifying shampoo to once every two weeks so your ends don’t dry out further.

Unlike straight hair, however, wavy hair can benefit from both lightweight and heavier oils like coconut, argan and jojoba oil. Friends who have this hair type tell me flaxseed is also a great ingredient to look out for. It’s rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which aid hair growth and frizz-control.

The ideal routine

Shampoo: The paraben- and sulphate-free Dove Beautiful Curls Hydrating shampoo is gentler on your hair and won’t strip away natural oils from your scalp. It contains light hydrating ingredients like aloe and shea butter, a perfect combo for wavy hair.

Conditioner: Recommended by haircare Reddit for Indian wavy hair, the Love, Beauty & Planet Argan Oil conditioner is also part of Nykaa’s most reordered product list. Argan oil conditioners won’t overwhelm an oily scalp and still evenly hydrate your waves, adding softness to your natural hair texture.

Mask: Avocado can protect both your scalp and ends, keeping them nourished for longer periods. Hair masks like Plum’s Avocado Nourish-Up can penetrate the hair shaft as wavy hair is more porous than straight hair, and hydrate the entire strand evenly.

For curly hair [3A, 3B, 3C, 4A]

Curly girls have their own method, and I’ve spent time admiring my friends with different curl patterns, crafting them strand by strand. My own research taught me that curly hair, which had the reputation for being irrevocably frizzy and untameable, just requires patience. And that women with this hair type were the first to figure out hydration for their own hair away from the beauty industry’s focus on silky, straight hair.

My friends each have different routines, but the base ingredients, like shea butter, coconut oil, glycerin, jojoba oil, are common. One tip they all swear by is to brush your hair when it’s wet. It results in less breakage for curly hair, and defines the curls before your hair dries.

The ideal routine

Shampoo: It’s generally advised that women with curly hair only shampoo their scalps and not the ends to avoid drying out their hair. The Fix My Curls shampoo contains the hydrating ingredient panthenol, which forms a film around the outer layer of your hair and retains moisture better.

Conditioner: Along with hydrating ingredients like argan and jojoba oils, the Curl Up Curl Hydrating Conditioner also contains a curly-hair favourite, flaxseed. It is great for defining and holding curls and because it’s lightweight, it seals in hydration for longer.

Mask: Packed with curly classics like shea butter, glycerine and cocoa butter, Moxie Beauty’s Deep Dive hair mask hydrates and improves elasticity. Better elasticity can help you fight hair fall and the particular wire-y texture curly hair develops.

For fine hair [1A]

A common misconception is that having fine hair means picking between hydration and volume because a lot of hydrating products can flatten fine hair with their fatty ingredients. Similar to straight hair, fine hair needs extremely lightweight products, but with volumising benefits. Look for ingredients like aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and the lightweight silicone amodimethicone.

Pro tip: wear hair masks before washing, and wash away excess with shampoo.

The ideal routine

Shampoo: The Kérastase Genesis Nutri-Fortifiant anti-hair fall shampoo contains amodimethicone, that adds shine and detangles hair. It’s great for all hair types, but it works best for fine hair, adding volume from the root.

Conditioner: To lock in more moisture from a hydrating shampoo, a volumising conditioner is the better-half. Said to be a gentle conditioner, the OGX Biotin conditioner builds up hydration over time. It also contains collagen, which adds more elasticity to your hair.

Serum: Recommended multiple times on skincare Reddit for thin hair, the L’Oreal Paris Extraordinary Oil hair serum contains a key ingredient just like amodimethicone, dimethicone, which also works to protect frizzy, dry hair, and locks in hydration without the heavy feeling.

Beyond your haircare routine

In addition to your haircare routine, save your hair from external stressors like the sun and pollution by always wearing scarves and hats when you leave the house (also a way great to keep your hair from getting caught in some aunty’s bangle on the train). Avoid or minimise heat-styling and hop on to the internet’s favourite trend of heatless curls.

Hydration is key for healthy hair, but make sure not to overwhelm your hair by introducing new products back-to-back. This will also help your scalp retain its natural oil cycle and pH levels and your hair and wallet will both thank you for taking the time to build a sustainable routine that works for you.

If the dryness still persists, consider seeking professional help as dry and brittle hair can also be a sign of essential vitamin deficiencies (like vitamin C and E).

I bought myself a whole new hair care routine for my type 1 hair at the last Nykaa payday sale, and I’m happy to report that my hair definitely feels softer after just a few uses. I’ve upgraded my bun of defeat to a pony of potential as a soft launch of my good-hair era.