Will rosemary turn my thinning hair into a lion's mane?
We asked an expert whether it’s all hype or a true hair care hero
In the era of Barbenheimer, our 2023 social media timelines were flooded with memes based on the blockbusters. But it wasn’t just these films that dominated the algorithm. Beauty enthusiasts had their eyes on only one thing constantly popping up on their ‘for you’ page — rosemary for hair care.
In the fast-paced world of beauty, trends sweep through like rickshaws in rush hour traffic, weaving through the chaos, here one moment and gone the next. Yet, within this whirlwind of buzz-worthy innovations, you can’t doom-scroll through Instagram late at night (women need more sleep than we’re getting) without seeing at least one post or reel about the benefits of rosemary for hair and scalp health, hair regrowth and much more.
Boil it down at home and bottle it up as a spray; or play Dexter and tinker around with different measures of how much to mix into a carrier oil to create your own blend. Everyone seems to have a secret recipe where this herb takes centre stage, boasting of abilities that anyone dealing with hair loss desires.
But is rosemary truly the elixir to banish all our hair problems, or is it just another social media fad influencing us to buy more products than we need? We asked an expert, and here’s what Dr Sravya Tipirneni, consultant dermatologist, cosmetologist and trichologist at Manipal Hospitals, Bengaluru, says.
Hype or hero?
If you’re anything like us, struggling with hair fall and a receding hairline after years of pulling your hair in a tight bun to stop sweating your makeup off (facial sweaters unite!), then you’ve tried at least one recipe involving rosemary for hair regrowth.
While Minoxidil (goes by many brand names) is considered to be the gold standard in hair regrowth medicines, there have been studies (a 2015 one in particular) that have found that rosemary oil may be a useful treatment for androgenic alopecia, commonly referred to as male- or female-pattern baldness, which is often driven by hormones and genetics.
One from 2022 found that this herb can aid in hair growth with similar effects as Minoxidil after six weeks of use, while a 2017 study showed that it’s not just hair, but also scalp health that it can affect positively. The study found that rosemary oil can effectively manage hair loss caused by scalp infections like folliculitis (inflammation of hair follicles) and seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff and scaly patches).
How does rosemary for hair care work?
While the internet is buzzing about rosemary’s magic for hair, Dr Tipirneni gives us the real story, breaking things down to explain how rosemary promotes hair growth.
Stimulates blood circulation: Improved blood flow nourishes hair follicles, promoting growth.
Reduces inflammation: Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties combat free radical damage and soothe the scalp, creating a healthy environment for hair growth.
May inhibit DHT: Rosemary may block the conversion of testosterone to DHT (dihydrotestosterone), a natural byproduct of testosterone, primarily in the male body but also present, to a lesser extent, in biologically female bodies. In those genetically prone to hair loss, DHT binds to scalp follicle receptors, causing miniaturisation (where follicles shrink), leading to thinner hair.
When should you apply it?
Different people will tell you to use it differently. It will take some trial and error to find a way to use rosemary for hair care that suits your needs and mood. Consider how much time you have: Is this a quick shower before heading out for a dinner date, or an ‘everything shower’ where you have the time to oil your hair and wait it out while shaving, exfoliating your body and more?
Tipirneni says you can use rosemary as a pre- or post-wash treatment. For pre-wash, she says, “Massage diluted rosemary oil into your scalp, or use a rosemary-infused hair mask for deeper penetration.” She adds that for a post-wash treatment, you can “rinse your hair with rosemary water as a final step, or add a few drops of rosemary essential oil to your regular conditioner.”
So, what’s the catch?
As is the case with most good things, there are some dos and don’ts that Tipirneni warns us about.
“Rosemary oil is potent, so always dilute it with a carrier oil like jojoba or coconut oil before applying it to your scalp.” Direct application of concentrated rosemary essential oil can lead to scalp irritation and even burns in extreme cases, which can cause greater hair loss. If your scalp is already sensitive, or you have conditions like seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis or eczema, you may want to give this a miss, as it can aggravate these further.
She recommends doing a patch test on a small area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions, and pregnant or breastfeeding women should consult a doctor before conducting any experiments of their own.
Fact vs fiction
When something is this popular, you know misinformation and myths are bound to appear. As is the case with any cosmetic product of treatment, whether for your skin or hair, time and patience are your partners in this journey.
Myth: Rosemary shows instant results and boosts hair growth like never before.
Fact: It may promote growth but it takes time and consistency.
Myth: Rosemary oil arrests hair loss completely.
Fact: It may help, but you need to consider other factors that could be contributing to hair loss, like medications, stress, heat damage and hormonal imbalances.
Myth: All rosemary products work the same.
Fact: Think of rosemary products like a box of assorted chocolates – they’re all chocolate, but they’re not the same. Differences in things like extraction methods, plant quality and processing techniques can affect their potency and effectiveness. Look for high-quality, diluted rosemary essential oil or a formula that has been infused properly.
A note of caution: This article includes expert input and is for educational purposes only. Please consult your healthcare provider to find a treatment plan that will work best for your needs.
