When Miley Cyrus said, "I can buy myself flowers", she meant diamonds too

The new Valentine’s Day flex

Cher proudly told her mother, “Mom, I am a rich man.” Miley Cyrus sang about buying herself flowers. And somewhere between those two declarations, women realised we didn’t need someone to put a ring on it. We’d rather do it ourselves.

Federica Imperiali, Director of the Forevermark Design and Innovation Centre in Milan, has watched this evolution closely and remarks that it is fundamentally influencing how diamonds are designed. This change is also visible at the brand’s newly opened flagship store, a nearly 5,000 sq ft space in the heart of Mumbai’s Linking Road. She says, “It’s an immersive experience that gives you space to really understand the inspiration behind each collection.”

We caught up with her to talk about what happens when women stop waiting for diamonds and start buying them ourselves.

Tweak: You observe global jewellery trends very closely; some might say you know what women want before they do. What jewellery trends have stood out for you?

Federica Imperiali: I hope that’s true, I’m definitely trying to understand them well enough to design jewellery that grows with them.

Globally, there’s a strong move towards geometric shapes and volume, whether that’s bold chokers, sculptural rings, or statement earrings. What’s really interesting, though, is women’s attitude towards how they wear jewellery and a shift toward self-purchase.

Many of our new designs are intentionally non-bridal and meant for everyday wear. That’s a very important shift, especially in India, where jewellery was traditionally bought to celebrate milestones, like weddings, and then it was locked away.

Now, we design with wearability in mind, like a choker might include a detachable line of diamonds that can be worn alone or turned into a tennis bracelet. Earrings may have removable danglers, so they also work as studs. The idea is to multiply the occasions on which a woman can wear the same piece. We also see a growing love for stacking, when pieces are designed to be layered and play with.

T: Are women shopping for jewellery more independently now?

FI: Women still come with their family or partners, but the decision is clearly hers. She may want their opinions, but her choice is very clear in her mind.

What’s powerful is how storytelling now influences purchase decisions. We start each design with a strong story so that a woman has an emotional connection to a piece of jewellery too.

For example, the Avaanti collection is inspired by the idea that even a single action or one voice can create an impact, like the butterfly effect. When you understand that story, you don’t only wear it because it’s beautiful, but it also reflects how you feel — you are proud to wear it.

T: What stands out for you when you’re designing for an Indian woman?

FI: We have designed collections specifically for India, like Aviara that’s inspired by the peacock but translated into the Forevermark way. We want to stay close to tradition while also appealing to younger customers who may not want to wear heavy jewellery every day.

We’ve even reimagined the mangalsutra by keeping its cultural significance intact, but designing it in a modern and minimal way.

T: What do you think is Gen Z’s take on diamond jewellery?

FI: They buy more than just the product; they invest in the brand. They need to be able to trust the brand and be proud to wear it. They want to know where the diamond comes from and at Forevermark, we really value the traceability and transparency behind our diamonds, and we are not scared to declare it. If you can tell that story authentically, Gen Z responds very strongly.

T: Even as millennials and Gen Z are known to invest in experiences over luxury brands, the diamond jewellery market is unaffected. Do you think it’s because diamonds are emotional rather than transactional?

FI: Absolutely. You may forget an experience but diamonds become time capsules. I still remember the first pair of diamond stud earrings I bought for myself or the diamond earrings my mother passed on to me. When I wear them, it instantly takes me back to my childhood. When you buy a diamond, you link an emotion to it or something you want to celebrate forever.