How to build a sari collection for your own 'Tum Kya Mile' moment

Should you begin with an organza, mulmul, Banarasi or Paithani?

Six yards of elegance, saris form a core memory for Indian girls. Whether it was wrapping yourself in a sari trying to look like mom as a six-year-old, watching in awe as dadi expertly pleated her Banarasi or carefully draping your first tissue silk sari for a friend’s wedding, these memory keepers have always been our jigar ka tukda.

Modern drapes and easy-to-manage fabrics have taken saris from being something we only pulled out for shaadis to easy everyday outfits for millennials. And rightly so. They’re versatile, flattering, as comfortable as pyjamas and carry the possibility of a Bollywood-style meet-cute. Ankita Katuri, a 36-year-old marketing professional and part-time fashion content creator, fondly remembers her first sari, a white chiffon with roses that was a hand-me-down from her mom. It sparked an immediate interest amongst her followers when she posted a picture of herself wearing the sari in 2018.

Around the same time in 2018, Katuri started her Instagram account as a personal project to document her love for saris. This has now evolved into a treasure trove of innovative drapes with blouse and jewellery pairing ideas. “[Initially] I gravitated towards light fabrics like organza, cotton and chiffon and I picked them from Suta,” she says. Her collection now boasts of over 100 saris across different weaves.

How did the sari become contemporary?

Brands like Suta, Ekaya Banaras, and Mulmul alongside several young designers have championed the current sari revival, making it cool and relevant again. From Suta’s quirky frill sari to Ekaya’s contemporary take on the classic Banarasi, these brands have made the sari seem less like an unsolvable chemical equation.

“For a long time, the sari was made to look cumbersome,” notes Sujata Biswas, co-founder of the popular design house Suta, which has an online store and physical stores in all major Indian cities. “Newer brands are experimenting with lighter, easy-to-handle fabrics like mulmul. Wearing a sari has become easy, which is why young women are opting for it more often.” Suta is making it even more convenient by finishing their saris with fall and edging, making them ready to wear straight off the shelf. They also offer to custom pre-stitch any of their saris to appeal to those discouraged by pleats.

Anavila Sindhu Misra, designer and creative director of Mumbai-based design studio Anavila, whose exquisite linen saris are a lesson in understated elegance, witnessed the contemporarisation of the sari first-hand around a decade ago. “Designers had started collaborating with weavers to bring out a genre of handloom saris that could be worn beyond just special occasions and festivals,” she says. Misra herself wanted her linen saris to be versatile pieces that transitioned seamlessly from day to night, and could be worn to work. “It was still a handwoven sari, but the yarn was new and contemporary. That’s how handloom saris entered the fashion space,” she adds.

Entering the world of saris can feel more overwhelming than understanding the Game of Thrones universe. Where would you even start—choosing the type of fabric, weave, dyeing technique, and pricing? To help you work through the basics, we spoke to some fashion experts and designers for their tips on textiles, care, and storage.

Beginner’s guide to building a sari collection

Which textile is right for me?

Given India’s extensive craft heritage, no wardrobe might be large enough to hold every variety of sari available. While building a sari collection, newbies can start by learning to identify different materials and get a feel of what they like by focusing on a few basic fabrics, such as cotton and silk, which are easy to find and style.

Cotton and linen

Lightweight cotton and linen saris are ideal for our heat and humidity. We’re spoiled for choice when it comes to handloom cotton—you can pick any regional variety, Bengali jamdani, Odisha ikats, chanderis and Maheshwari from Madhya Pradesh, Kota doriya from Rajasthan—there’s something for every aesthetic.

Linen is an even lighter, more breathable fabric that feels like you’re wearing a cloud. If you’re someone who hates the feeling of fabric clinging to your skin, linen saris should be your go-to. According to Misra, “Brighter linen saris can work as a fine evening look when paired with the right jewellery.” (We have some options here)

Silks

Building a sari collection is incomplete without heirloom silk pieces, like Banarasis, Kanjeevarams, and Paithanis, which are perfect for weddings or special occasions. According to fashion journalist and stylist Vinita Makhija,​​ heritage silks draped in a sleek, modern way are having their moment—from Alia Bhatt donning a silk organza sari with vintage Banarasi panels to Aditi Rao Hydari draping a beautiful Raw Mango Varanasi silk for one of her wedding ceremonies. So, you’d be right on trend.

“Banarasi saris with their unique motifs and radiant pink and red colours are must-haves,” adds Biswas. She also recommends opting for lighter shades in Kanjeevarams, like ivory or beige, which are rarer finds and make for unique additions to your wardrobe. For Paithanis, you either choose their traditional bright-hued combinations—green and pink or yellow and red—or for a more contemporary look, invest in a pastel shade (Paithanis by Mruga Kirloskar has some beautiful options).

Organza and mulmul

Light and breezy, organza and mulmul saris exude a soft elegance that will appeal to all romantics. These fabrics drape beautifully around your body and make a handy canvas for experimenting with styles. Mulmul saris are also perfect for special events or wedding functions—they look delicate but are as sturdy as Ambuja cement, making them a timeless addition to your collection.

How do I recognise the right fabric?

“It’s a knack you learn only from time and experience,” says Misra, though she does share a tip for identifying pure linen: “It won’t feel slippery or crayon-like. When you crush it, it has a slightly crumbly texture.”

According to Biswas, the best way to ensure you’re investing in pure fabrics is to buy your saris from authorised sellers, or stores that have been given the GI tag by the government or are giving you a silk or handloom certificate along with the product as proof of authenticity.

How much should I expect to pay?

Investing in a sari collection requires some consideration for your wallet; you can work with a budget as small as your regular Netflix subscription or go as high as the price of a piece of diamond jewellery from Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri. It all depends on the fabric and craftsmanship of your sari. “The finer the work, the higher the price,” explains Misra, which is also why certain silk saris like Paithanis, Banarasis, and some mul Jamdanis, can cost over a lakh for their intricate detailing.

There are also more affordable options that are worth the purchase. “Cotton Paithanis start at ₹10,000, while silk ones can start at ₹15,000,” says Mruga Kirloskar, founder of Paithanis by Mruga Kirloskar. “On the other hand, you can find beautiful khadi cotton saris starting from ₹5,000 or eri silk saris from ₹7,000. You may even find good quality saris in the range of ₹3,000-5,000, but you have to ensure the yarn is pure.”

What’s the best way to store a sari?

Saris are delicate darlings that need to be handled with love and care. Here are our expert tips on how you can store them well:

• Air your saris in the sun regularly to get rid of must, moss and insects, especially in case of pure silk fabric.

• Avoid hanging saris, especially silks. Wrap them in soft mulmul cloth and change the folds regularly to prevent creases.
  
• Layer a plain cotton sari underneath a zari one to protect the zari from damage.

• Don’t dry-clean frequently: gentle hand washing and drying in the shade works well.

• Roll your Paithanis on a wooden or steel rod and wrap them in a muslin cloth to relieve tension on the yarn. Avoid using strong detergents and exposing them to high heat or harsh sunlight.

How many sari blouses do I really need?

According to our sari experts you need four key options to sail through multiple looks: ivory, black, red and an embroidery-heavy option. Biswas also suggests experimenting with cuts and sleeves. “Have something with a sweetheart or U-neck, one with elbow-length sleeves, one with a deep back. Opt for blouses that are open in the back and not the front for a neater look,” she says.

Alternatively, you can simply repurpose your favourite crop tops, shirts and long tops and wear them as sari blouses for a budget option to avoid last-minute fitting woes.

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Expert tips for first-time sari collectors

“Start with the basics, like a classic red organza or chiffon for a sensuous, timeless look or a black sari with a sequin border. These can be dressed up or down for any occasion and are great staples to have in your collection.” — Sujata Biswas, co-founder, Suta.

“Buy saris that feel personal and draw you to them. Since most Indian families will have the classic Banarasis and Kanjeevarams in the family sandook, invest in weaves and brands that feel au courant like a Pashmina sari.” — Vinita Makhija, fashion journalist and stylist.

“Raid your mother’s wardrobe, get a feel of different drapes and textiles to see what you lean towards, and what feels good on your body, and then buy from the market.” — Mruga Kirloskar, founder, Paithanis by Mruga Kirloskar.

“If you’re just starting out, I’d recommend picking up solid colours in lighter fabrics because that gives you a lot of scope for styling.” — Ankita Katuri, fashion influencer.