No noise, no trends, 'ghar jaisa khaana' is the real star at this women-run restaurant in Goa

The Goa plan your parents will approve of

For most of us sagging under the weight of deadlines and EMIs, Goa is not just a travel destination; it is a pathway to tap into our wild, carefree selves. With heart-eyed visions of sun-kissed beaches, shack life, and sundowner parties, the ‘Goa plan’ has lived many lives in our WhatsApp group chats with friends: planned, postponed, cancelled, revived again…

But while we keep hoping that some day the trip will leave the chat and materialise, the quintessential ‘Goa plan’ has undergone a facelift. Because beyond the palm-lined tourist circuit, the sunny beach state has slowly been developing a reputation as a cool culinary destination, offering the best of diverse cuisines from across the country and beyond. Sometimes you’ll find that perfect post-beach meal in a swish, fine-dining restaurant serving elevated takes on classic foods. Or in a cosy cafe that evokes an al fresco afternoon in Paris (except the croissants here are superior). And sometimes, if you’re really looking, you’ll stumble upon a culinary gem that disarms you with its simplicity and warmth. Like Sappadu.

Hidden in a lane in tourist-friendly Assagao village, this vegetarian South Indian restaurant offers joy not through cocktails or loud music, but through the comfort of a homely meal.

The place doesn’t look like a typical restaurant. It is housed in a 100-year-old Goan home and as you enter, the minimalist interiors indeed remind you of a relative’s house. The Portuguese-Goan architectural elements such as the sloping roof with Mangalore tiles, artworks featuring flora and fauna motifs, and vintage bric-a-brac lend the place a pared down yet personal vibe.

What adds to its sense of a home visit is the team of eight women who run the place. They greet you with a smile before serving you traditional Tamil classics like puliyodharai (tamarind rice), paniyaram, uttapam, podi button idli and panakam (traditional South Indian version of lemonade), the taste of which lingers in your mind long after you’ve left.

From necessity to new business

The restaurant is the brainchild of couple Priya (a product designer) and Anuj Shah (an investor), who moved from Mumbai to Goa just before the first Covid-19 lockdown in March 2020. Being freelance consultants, they could work from anywhere and wanted to trade city life for the tranquility of Goa. Starting a restaurant was nowhere on their horizon. Until they were introduced to Gouri by their househelp, Maya.

Gouri’s husband had lost his job as a driver during the lockdown and they had a one-year-old daughter to take care of—she was in dire need of work. The couple employed Gouri as a gardener in May 2020. Then one day, things changed.

“It was raining outside, so I couldn’t tend the garden. Ma’am and sir called me inside. I saw ma’am cooking, and offered to help,” 39-year-old Gouri recalls. That day, she cooked vendakkai poriyal (stir-fried bhindi) and sambar, staples of the cuisine of her hometown, Nagercoil, in Tamil Nadu. Priya, who had worked extensively in South India, and Anuj, having grown up in Matunga, Mumbai, a hub of South Indian restaurants, were both impressed. “When they learnt that I had an interest in cooking, they created an opportunity for me to take these flavours to more people,” she says.

The plan was simple: Gouri and Maya would cook the food, Priya would pack it, and Anuj would deliver it. They went on to host small groups of guests on their balcony, and organise food pop-ups at different locations. They christened their operation Sappadu—meaning simply ‘meal’ in Tamil, and apt for the wholesome home-cooked fare they served—at their first pop-up, which they organised to raise funds for Gouri’s family.

The four of them were not prepared for the volume of interest the little initiative would generate. Soon, they were refusing orders because of time and resource constraints.

A chef is born

After a year of bootstrapping and building a loyal customer base, the culinary venture got its own address—a 32-seater restaurant in Assagao. Sappadu opened its doors in October 2021, and since then, the service team has expanded to eight women, with Gouri leading from the front.

“When the restaurant first opened, I was worried. I didn’t know if I would be able to do justice to the work. But Priya ma’am stood by me like a rock, assuring me that I can accomplish anything. Now, there is nothing that shakes my belief. If you tell me to cook for 5,000 people, I will do it without batting an eye,” Gouri shares proudly.

She not only found confidence, but her love for cooking has evolved into a pursuit of artistry. “I have always loved cooking. But after I met ma’am and sir, I started appreciating it even more. While my favourite dish is tamarind rice, I am always trying to experiment with different flavours at the restaurant,” she reveals.

Priya affirms Gouri’s relentless enthusiasm to experiment. “She blends her Tamil roots with Goan flavours, and also brings a tinge of Kerala influence since her village is located on the Tamil Nadu-Kerala border. One of my favourite experimental dishes is the smoked aubergine with smoked tomato thogayal (chutney). It is smoky, tangy, earthy and spicy at the same time,” she says. “She’s also always trying to find innovative ways to bring seasonal fruits and vegetables into the dishes, such as the pomegranate rasam and amla rasam.”

Ketki Hulamajage, Tweak’s social media manager who visited the restaurant last month, also attests to the fact that Gouri had the brightest smile while greeting guests, and that the food she cooked was “unique yet simple, homely and fulfilling”, which is exactly what Sappadu aims to offer.

Growing slowly and steadily

While it was unintentional at first, the Shahs later made the conscious decision to employ only women. The other members of Gouri’s team, who joined as operations expanded, are all locals from Assagao and nearby villages—and like Gouri and Maya, some are members of Assagao Mahila Mandli, a group formed to help members with finances and work opportunities. While some of them assist Gouri in the kitchen, others take care of the guests and handle day-to-day operations.

Beyond a professional relationship, the team of women also share a family-like bond. “While we are working, we only concentrate on work. But when it ends, the eight of us talk and get along like sisters. I even knew some of them before they joined the restaurant. We really are a family,” Gouri shares. In many workplaces, the term “family” is a red flag, but at Sappadu, it’s just true. The team’s needs and well-being are taken into serious consideration. For example, the restaurant only remains open from 9 am to 5 pm, since all the team members have kids waiting for them at home, and need to maintain a work-life balance.

The Shahs eventually moved to Ahmedabad in 2024, starting two more restaurants in the city (Sappadu Ahmedabad and Madras House). They turned the Sappadu Goa operations over to Gouri completely. The eight women currently manage and run the place like their own. “We love what we have built in Goa and we miss our team. But as far as restaurant operations are concerned, we don’t worry at all because Gouri has it all handled,” says Priya. The restaurant’s image eventually shifted from being viewed by locals as a venture set up by outsiders, it now feels like an eatery run by their own people.

Food that reminds you of home

Beyond the sweet origin story and the all-women team though, what makes Sappadu a must-visit, is the plainly excellent food. With a limited menu of Tamil classics like paniyaram, uttapam and podi ragi dosa, the focus stays on authenticity over expansion.

“We source the ingredients from local markets every day. In fact, the spices are also freshly ground in the kitchen,” Gouri shares. And the best part? They don’t have a large storage freezer—every dish is made fresh and is preservative-free. If you happen to visit the eatery on a Sunday, or during traditional festivals like Pongal or Onam, you will also be able to enjoy a traditional 18-course banana leaf meal.

“You will not feel that you are at a restaurant. You will feel like you are at home, sitting and eating with your family,” Gouri promises.

So if, or rather when, the holiday plan finally leaves the chat, make sure to schedule in time to explore Goa’s unexpected culinary delights, like Sappadu. It’ll be like a little sunbath for your stomach and your heart.

Disclaimer: Some parts of this interview have been translated from Hindi to English.