We asked an Indian princess for her favourite heritage hotels in India
Do you hear the decadence calling?
I watched Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani for the 100th time earlier this week. And as tradition goes, the famous wedding scene, set in the Oberoi Udaivilas, kicked off my own imaginary shaadi sequence (Ranbir Kapoor may have had a starring role in my daydream, too). This movie always manages to jolt my Pinterest wedding board out of slumber, as I began adding inspiration pins faster than The Flash. But there’s more to heritage hotels in India than imagining them as wedding venues.
For Brijeshwari Kumari Gohil, scion of the former royal family of Bhavnagar, historic structures have always been spaces that fuel creativity and inspiration. Travelling on family holidays brought her attention to how other countries were preserving their heritage structures, making them accessible to the public so that everyone could feel connected to their roots. “I realised we had so much in India, and not nearly enough manpower to look after it,” says Gohil, who now has a Master’s degree in heritage conversation and restoration.
Her own family’s home, Nilambagh palace, has been open to visitors for two generations. And Gohil’s passion has led her to visit several other lesser-known heritage hotels in India, which she shared with us in this handy travel guide. In her opinion, it’s important for the lesser-known heritage structures to come into the limelight so that the tourism it facilitates can assist in their preservation and maintenance. Take a look.
10 lesser-known heritage hotels in India to transport you back in time
Endhania Bungalow, Gujarat
“It’s the perfect place where nature meets culture,” quips Gohil, as she starts off the list with her home state of Gujarat. Endhania Bungalow is a colonial-style abode perched upon a hill in the middle of Sasan Gir. What used to be the hunting lodge for the royal family of Jetpur is now a boutique property for a relaxing vacation in the lap of nature. “Gujarat’s hunting lodges were an integral part of recreation and leisure activities. What interests me is how they have done a complete 360 on this place to make it a spot for enjoying wildlife,” says Gohil.
Interestingly, it is the only heritage property that is situated inside the actual forested area. The property may not be grand in the traditional sense, but the panoramic views of the forest are to die for. If you are looking for a quick getaway in Gujarat and are craving some khuli hawa, Endhania Bungalow should definitely be the heritage hotel on your list.
Belgadia Palace, Odisha
Belgadia Palace is an oasis in the east, spread across 15 acres of mango orchards in Mayurbhanj, Odisha. It was built in the 1800s and features Victorian architecture mixed with Georgian-era decor. Its rooms are painted in vibrant colours and create a classy contrast against the wooden furniture and memorabilia in and around the property.
“They have restored it to look and feel like home rather than a heritage hotel,” says Gohil. The palace originally served as quarters for visiting foreign dignitaries and other guests. After Independence, the royal family made it their official residence and recently, princesses Mrinalika and Akshita have restored the property and opened it up to visitors.
They want to go beyond the commercialisation of the palace into one of the many heritage hotels in India and instead, focus on bringing artists and literature enthusiasts to the region. They are also hosting a residency programme where contemporary artists from painters to photographers work on their craft, interact with local artisans and work on effective collaborations. “I know about this because I did something similar a year ago in Bhavnagar. We had artists come from MSU Baroda who created sculptures out of wood from trees that were destroyed by a cyclone that hit the city two years ago,” Gohil says.
Dariya Mahal, Gujarat
“My family also has a beach property in Gujarat, of course I’m biased,” jokes Gohil as she tells us about the stunning Dariya Mahal which is an hour’s drive from Bhavnagar. Commissioned in the 1940s by Gohil’s great-grandfather as a summer residence, Dariya Mahal is a boutique property with 15 rooms. It is built in an Indo-western style of architecture using traditional construction practices and colonial influences. The historic house is not particularly grand in terms of architecture, but it scores 100/100 for location and views.
For Gohil, what adds to Dariya Mahal’s appeal is the interesting religious confluence on a nearby hill. The spot houses Buddhist caves, a temple and a mosque. Additionally, it happens to be one of the few places in Gujarat where you can see the maximum number of migratory and local birds in the winter months, making it an enticing spot for bird watchers, nature lovers and photographers. With all-time beach access, a stay at Dariya Mahal will disconnect you from the hubbub and offer you a relaxed getaway. “The location provides you with the kind of peace and tranquillity that is hard to find these days,” says Gohil.
Brunton Boatyard, Kochi
An amusing example of adaptive architecture can be seen in one particular hotel in Fort Kochi. Brunton Boatyard used to be a shipbreaking yard, and continues to retain the colonial charm through its Victorian-style architecture even as it adapts new-age practices of solar panelling and rainwater harvesting. “I’ve done my fair share of staying in Fort Kochi over the years but what stood out to me at Brunton Boatyard among the heritage hotels in India was that all the interiors have been kept exactly the same. They have not tried to contemporise it,” remarks Gohil. Brunton Boatyard pays homage to its origin story through the preserved roof tiles, original woodwork and beams. The black and white photographs, maps and vintage artefacts in the interiors give you a peek into Kochi’s history as a popular trading port and of the location as a shipyard.
The hotel is built in such a way that the gentle sea breeze always plays around on the premises making it a patch of paradise. The hotel has sea-facing rooms and suites along with non-sea-facing rooms. It serves you with an excellent view of the sea, delicious local food and all the modern amenities you’d look forward to on a vacation including some great massages. And you can pretend that you’re a character on Bridgerton as you sip tea or dine at the seaside deck concerned about Lady Whistledown’s next gossip update.
Le Dupleix, Pondicherry
It was on her third visit to Pondicherry that Gohil discovered this serene white French villa. Located in the heart of the old French quarters in Pondicherry, Le Dupleix is an ode to the region’s French heritage. Built in the 18th century, it served as a residence for the mayor of Pondicherry. “What I found interesting here is that the entire restoration process has been photographed and documented, right from the gate to the rooms. It immediately makes you appreciate the furniture when you enter a room,” says Gohil.
The property has 14 rooms, each with its own theme. It’s a classic French structure but with Indian influences. It also happens to have some of the best seafood and Creole cuisine you’ll find in the city.
Le Dupleix gets its name from Joseph François Dupleix, a successful governor-general of French territories in India. You’ll find the original intricate woodwork from his house, memorabilia and artefacts from his travels and several antiques and textiles displayed all over the property.
So if you’re craving some vitamin Sea, we suggest you pack your sundresses and take a trip to Le Dupleix asap.
Rokeby Manor, Mussoorie
Nestled in the quiet of Landour in Mussoorie among majestic oak, cedar and pine trees, Rokeby Manor will simply take your breath away. What connected Gohil to Rokeby Manor were memories of her visits to estates and country homes for her Master’s degree.
This country estate is over 150 years old and features the classic 19th-century colonial stonework on walls, arches and pebbled pathways. The property has retained the original wooden floors, beams and fireplaces which add to its rustic charm. You will find colonial-style patchwork and floral motifs in the decor of the rooms. Gohil admires how the it was curated to accommodate modern amenities without compromising on the heritage of the structure.
There isn’t anything better than curling up with a cosy blanket in front of a fireplace and reading as you drink the warmest beverage, overlooking the hills. If you are a definitive mountain person, Rokeby Manor is the heritage hotel to dash to the second your leave is approved.
Chapslee, Shimla
Gohil’s connection to the hills goes beyond just travel. It’s actually personal. “My mother is from Dharamshala so I have taken a lot of trips to Himachal Pradesh,” she says. Not so surprising then that her list of heritage hotels in India features a tranquil heritage haven in the mountains. Chapslee, a warm and homely heritage hotel as Gohil describes it, was used as a summer home by the Kapurthala royal family.
Built in 1830, the boutique property isn’t palatial in its appearance but is a beautiful home in the hills complete with pretty gardens and creepers on its walls. The interiors are done in the signature European colonial design style, a testament to the era in which it was built, and the property has retained all the original furniture, woodwork and textiles. And a library to entice the next generation of readers.
Umed Bhawan, Kota
If one were to play a game of association, most people would link Kota with IIT. In the sea of engineering and medicine-centred conversations, what we tend to overlook are the heritage gems of the city. Sharing its name (not the spelling) with the famous Umaid Bhawan Palace of Jodhpur, Kota’s Umed Bhawan Palace is a heritage property that used to be the residence of the Kota royal family.
It was commissioned by Umed Singh II in the early 1900s and is built with pink sandstone in an Indo-Saracenic style. At Umed Bhawan, colonial-style architecture meets Rajput and Mughal design sensibilities, creating a beautiful confluence of cultures and influences.
“Unlike other heritage hotels of Rajasthan, which are grand in terms of their height, Umed Bhawan’s grandeur lies in its sprawling campus and horizontal layout. The palace also has a captivating clock tower on the premises,” says Gohil.
Kota also happens to be a landmark for art and culture enthusiasts with its miniature painting museums, heritage spots and textiles. So if you want to experience an authentic Rajasthani stay and vacation in an unexplored spot, Umed Bhawan Palace is the place to be at. Currently, the hotel is not accepting reservations, but it’s going to re-open soon. “The royal family hasn’t had another place open as a hotel that could house more than 20 people. So I think this would be a new and refreshing place to visit in Rajasthan,” says Gohil.
Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar
The Ahilya Wada, which was the official royal residence of Queen Ahilyabai Holkar, has now been converted into a heritage hotel. For Gohil, the restoration of a fort to become a hotel is what added to the charm of the place. “Traditionally, forts were not places to live in. They were places that people went to when there was an attack, or it was a capital,” she states. Logistically, it is not an easy task to create luxurious rooms within a fort and make internal accessibility easy even for the hospitality staff to move around, Gohil adds.
The property has 19 rooms which are spread out in six buildings, all originally built in the 18th century, on the banks of the Narmada. Characterised by beautiful gardens, fountains and courtyards, you will find significant traditional Indian antiquities, from jharokas to motifs and carvings such as the dwar rakshaks, men protecting the gates to the home, all over the property. The internal gardens, landscaped and designed over the years in the fort premises, are a captivating sight for travellers.
What’s unique is there’s no restaurant or extensive menu choices at Fort Ahilya. Meals are decidedly fixed for an authentic dining experience by Prince Richard Holkar. The food is served at varied locations all across the hotel premises.
Fort Jadhavgadh, Pune
For the Mumbai-raised Gohil, discovering the existence of a heritage hotel near Pune only recently, was a surprise. “I haven’t ventured out much in Maharashtra and I grew up in Bombay so this was a must-visit for me. And then it also led me to read up more about the forts in Maharashtra,” she says. While many have become spots for seasonal hikes, this fort-turned-heritage hotel is definitely deserving of our attention.
Fort Jadhavgadh near Pune, operated by the Orchid group of hotels, gives you the authentic experience of royal Maratha living. Located on top of a hill, it was originally built by Maratha general Pilaji Jadhavrao in 1710 as his residence. The structure of the hotel is like that of a fortified castle, true to the Maratha style of architecture. But that doesn’t take away from the decadence the hotel guarantees its guests.
Even though the property is well-modernised and equipped with all the amenities that characterise a luxury hotel, the theme is strongly rooted in the fort’s history. For instance, the manager is called the killedaar, the rooms are called kholis, the swimming pool is called kund and so on and so forth. When it comes to room options, you have the king’s own suite, a museum suite with a private entrance, as well as luxury tent rooms which are known as Chhavanis i.e. royal tents.
This sprawling property offers you a serene view of the Sahyadri hills and takes you right back into a time of Maratha regality while offering a top-notch luxury experience.
So if you were looking for a royal heritage hotel experience around Mumbai and Pune, look no further than Fort Jadhavgadh.
