Should teenagers really be using vitamin C and retinoids?

When you’re 15, feeling like there’s nothing to figure out…except skincare

25 years old and confused about skincare. That’s me. 2023 was the year that recurring breakouts forced me off my high horse of ‘my skin doesn’t need it’. From treating Vaseline’s moisturiser as a one-stop shop for everything, my skincare routine now features a cleanser, toner, serum, moisturiser and SPF in the hopes that I too might wake up with Alia Bhatt’s glow any day now.

Curating a skincare routine is a process of patience, a trait I sorely lack. It also seems to require a PhD in chemistry. So when I see skincare for teenagers with a five, seven and sometimes 10-step routine, I wonder, how in the world? The answer is reels. As GRWM (Get ready with me), skincare routine, and makeup routine become increasingly popular searches on social media, even Gen Alpha is convinced to buy products that promise to leave them glowing like jellyfish in the dark.

17-year-old Zara Hussain and her friends get their information from reels uploaded by dermatologists, or from celebrities who might have the same skin type as them. “When you see certain products and techniques working for them, naturally you would want to try it too,” says Hussain. But this is a game of chance, and using a variety of products can do more damage than good. “Teenagers don’t need to go overboard with their skincare, most are using too many products when they usually have good skin and just need to concentrate on controlling the skin concern rather than treating an issue that doesn’t exist,” says dermatologist Dr Aanchal Panth.

Dr Sonia Tekchandani, a celebrity dermatologist, agrees. “There are so many skincare trends that they (teens) tend to buy a lot of skincare products, and that’s when they see an aggravation of acne.”

Both Panth and Tekchndani prefer a minimalist approach to skincare for teenagers. The hormonal changes that occur in adolescence are already having a rager inside the body with the most apparent effects appearing on the skin in the form of acne, oily skin, blackheads, whiteheads and pigmentation. The last thing you would want to do is aggravate any of these underlying concerns by layering on product after product like a highway pileup.

The best way to approach skincare for teenagers is to follow an easy and sustainable skincare routine that also addresses your specific skin concern.

The less, the merrier

The number of skincare products available in drugstores could put even the Kaurava army from Mahabharat to shame. So how is anyone supposed to know what works and what’s harmful?

The experts have laid out a few safe bets.

Niacinamide – It helps in repairing the skin barrier and reduces sebum production and oiliness. The anti-inflammatory properties also help combat redness and increase ceramide production in the skin. Panth recommends using toners and serums with up to 5% niacinamide in your daytime skincare. According to Tekchandani, niacinamide also helps with reducing pigmentation and is perfectly safe for acne-prone skin.

Salicylic acid – The thought of a product that says acid on your skin might make you jumpy, but Panth recommends using a little on parts where you have oiliness. Tekchandani says low concentrations of salicylic acid in the form of serums or face washes are good for combination skin and acne-prone skin. The compounds in salicylic acid help in shedding dead skin cells and reducing inflammation which decreases breakouts on the skin.

Tekchandani also says low concentrations of AHAs and BHAs through serums or face washes can be used by those who have acne-prone skin. A low concentration of lactic acid and hyaluronic acid can work well for dry skin.

Ceramides – Another yes ingredient, ceramides help repair the skin barrier and work for all types of skin including acne-prone and dry skin. It reduces transepidermal water loss and hydrates and heals the skin, reducing eruptions and irritation. Panth recommends using a ceramide-based moisturiser at night.

Sunscreen – Both experts emphasise the usage of good sunscreen. Teenagers are exposed to the sun owing to their active lifestyles, extracurricular activities and higher screen time. This can very easily lead to tanning, dark spots and pigmentation. Incorporating sunscreen into your routine will go a long way in keeping your skin healthy and glowy. Those with oily skin can use a water or gel-based sunscreen while those with dry and normal skin can use a cream-based sunscreen.

Skincare for teenagers: what to avoid

Vitamin C is a great investment for pigmentation and anti-ageing but there’s no reason for teenagers to invest in it. This tricky ingredient could also irritate sensitive skin. “Vitamin C is absolutely a no for acne-prone skin. They start using Vitamin C and see an aggravation in acne and that’s when they reach us,” says Tekchandani.

Retinol is another such hype product. Both Panth and Tekchandani maintain that retinol is not a product teenagers need unless acne’s in the picture, and a dermatologist recommends it. Bakuchiol oil, a plant-based retinol is gaining popularity now but you definitely don’t need it at 15.

All the options in skincare for teenagers are attractive, we get it. The allure of glass skin is all too powerful. But other people’s GRWMs are only relaxing to watch while unwinding in your bed. You won’t be very relaxed if your skin reacts to excessive vitamin C and turns you into Anger from Pixar’s Inside Out.

A note of caution: This story is for educational purposes with inputs from trained experts. Please consult your healthcare provider to know what suits your needs best.