When did washing your hair get so complicated?

We’ve come a long way from amla-reetha-shikakai

Modern life can feel as frustrating as a disastrous DIY haircut. You’d hope your freshly washed hair would help your confidence and spirits spring back into action. But as you step under the cascading water and stare at your army of hair products, you realise that this seemingly mundane task now feels like a high-stakes game of Russian roulette. Which choice will unlock Rapunzel-esque locks? Which product will lead to catastrophe?

We’ve come a long way from the days of reaching for a single bottle of amla-reetha-shikakai shampoo. Now, the ever-growing list of hair essentials includes shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, pre and post-wash serums—plus an endless list of hair dilemmas. Should I try co-washing? Do I need to shampoo every day? Does my scalp need double cleansing?

Which is why, to make showers stress-free again, we reached out to hair experts to comb through the tangled tale of modern hair washing.

Is there a ‘right way’ to wash your hair?

The internet can be a confusing haven for hair care advice, especially with everyone claiming to have found the “right” way. But according to Ludhiana-based aesthetic dermatologist, trichologist and transplant surgeon Dr Palki Kaur, hair washing should be personalised. There’s no universal method that works for everyone.

Dr Sravya Tipirneni, consultant dermatologist, cosmetologist and trichologist at Manipal Hospitals in Bengaluru, agrees, adding, “What works for someone with straight, fine hair might not be ideal for someone with thick, curly locks.” So, if your favourite influencer has you eyeing that hair mask that’s trending in South Korea, you might want to stop and consider the hair and scalp type of the person recommending it.

In addition, Tipirneni recommends certain basic hair-washing principles:

Focus on your scalp: The purpose of shampoo is to primarily cleanse your scalp of dirt and build-up; for this, gently massage the product across your scalp while avoiding the lengths of your hair. The suds will cleanse the rest of your hair as you rinse out the shampoo.

Condition wisely: Even if you have a dry scalp that needs hydration or moisture, conditioner isn’t the right product for the job. Keep it for your ends and rinse it, avoid your roots to prevent greasiness.

Listen to your hair: How often should you wash your hair? The right answer requires some experimenting. This will help you find the frequency that suits your scalp while avoiding over-washing (which strips natural oils) or under-washing (which causes build-up and scalp issues).

Why does my hair feel dry even after a wash?

Let’s break it down: hair porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Think of it as your hair’s VIP pass to the hydration club. According to Kaur, high porosity hair, like that friend who always manages to spill their drink at the party, absorbs moisture like a sponge but struggles to keep it locked in. On the flip side, low porosity hair is like the bouncer at the club, tightly guarding the cuticle layer and making it a challenge for moisture to penetrate.

Kaur says it’s best to consult a trained professional to guide you on the right products to choose according to your hair porosity. However, there is also a test you can do at home, but it’s not entirely reliable.

This DIY experiment involves dropping clean strands of hair (ideally from different parts of your head) into water. You likely have high porosity hair if it sinks faster than your heart during a Bollywood tear-jerker. But if it plays hard-to-sink and stays on the surface like a pool floaty, chances are you have low porosity locks.

Also, the next time you wash your hair, Kaur suggests observing how your hair responds to water. How long does it take for your hair to soak in the water? Does it absorb easily? That’s a sign of high porosity. Maybe your hair takes a long time to absorb moisture; when it does, it holds onto it for too long. You may have low porosity hair.

Kaur adds that for those with high porosity hair, moisturising is the name of the game. Reach for nourishing products packed with shea butter, coconut oil and aloe vera to quench your hair’s thirst. And don’t forget to show your hair some love with the LCO (leave-in conditioner, cream and oil) method.

On the other hand, low-porosity hair benefits from products that can penetrate that stubborn cuticle layer. Opt for lightweight, water-based formulas that won’t weigh your hair down. Kaur says that when all else fails, a little steam can work wonders in helping your cuticles relax and products penetrate deeper. She does caution that steaming should be done with great attention. You don’t want to scald your scalp.

So, how often should I wash my hair?

Ah, the eternal dilemma: to wash or not to wash? Nobody wants to deal with an itchy, flaky scalp, greasy roots and jhaadu-dry ends. Tipirneni suggests finding your balance. If you have fine/normal hair, washing two or three times a week should suffice. People with dry, thick or curly hair can opt for washing their hair once or twice a week, or co-washing (cleansing with a conditioner instead of a shampoo). People with oily hair might need to wash their hair every day, and that’s absolutely fine, too. Just try and stick to gentle shampoos.

How do I deal with product overload?

We’re not saying that having more options for different hair types in the market is a bad thing. In fact, more choice gives people access to products that better suit their needs. But it’s also a struggle not to get swept up in changeable trends and sparkly new launches (you can also try these low-effort hair products).

To avoid being overwhelmed, Tipirneni has created a helpful checklist to help you build a solid hair care foundation:

Prioritise: Focus on the essentials first, like a gentle shampoo and conditioner suited to your hair type and porosity.

Simplify: Layering too many products regularly can also start to weigh down your hair, especially if you are not cleansing well later. Decide what your essentials are and work with only those for some time to see how your hair reacts. Then you can add another product, if needed.

Do a patch test: As with any cosmetic product, it’s important to try hair care products on a small area first to check for any adverse or allergic reactions. Before investing in full-size bottles, pick up the smallest ones to sample new products.

Consult a dermatologist: Some things are best left to the experts. A dermatologist can’t replace any number of hair spas at the salon, especially if they’re not suited for your hair type and scalp’s needs.

As we wrap up, remember that your wash routine is just one chapter in your hair care journey. Whether you’re a daily washer or a once-a-week warrior, the key is to listen to your hair’s needs, adapt as necessary, and, most importantly, give yourself a break. Some days, you wake up feeling like you’re in a shampoo advertisement, and the next, you might feel like you’ve been caught in a tornado. Don’t let the media determine how you should or shouldn’t look. Seek consultation with medical experts rather than social media.

A note of caution: This article contains inputs from trained medical professionals and is meant for educational purposes. Please consult your healthcare provider to find what best suits your needs.