I spent thousands of rupees chasing 'glass skin'

The shift in aspirations from matte finishes to dewy skin has been complicated for Indian skin tones

In my circle of family and friends, I’m the go-to person for skincare advice. Got a pimple? Get yourself a microdart acne patch with salicylic acid. Skin feeling uneven? Niacinamide is your girl, girl. Back from your beach holiday looking sun-roasted instead of sun-kissed? I know the perfect remedy (also, never forget sunscreen).

How did I come to be this purveyor of skincare wisdom? (Disclaimer: I’m still no expert; doctor’s visits are irreplaceable.) Well, I’ve spent years trying every trending beauty product. I’ve put my skin through the wringer, possibly more than I should admit to. And my biggest crime yet has been giving in to every pop-up ad promising chandelier-like radiance for my skin. It’s a habit that’s steadily drained my bank account. Most recently, after many experiments and conversations with trained professionals, I realised I was chasing yet another unrealistic skincare goal: glass skin for brown skin.

Like most desi kids, I grew up with acne that I poked and popped, and facial hair that I plucked and waxed. What Clearasil couldn’t do, I managed to do with a walnut face scrub (tauba tauba).

Today, my skin is covered with ice pick scars, melasma and hyperpigmentation. And my K-pop soundtracked dreams of achieving Korean glass skin can be seen as delusional. Glass skin, as the name suggests, is to achieve a complexion that is so smooth and luminous, almost translucent, that it resembles glass. Once the rest of the world caught up with the fact that Korean beauty products are far superior in their formulations, we chased every one of their beauty habits —glass skin, glossy hair, lip tints, milk tea hair colour and doll-like makeup. Every third beauty reel began to feature at least one of these.

Admittedly, I joined the bandwagon with my own attempts at achieving glass skin with a demanding 10-step routine. You have to (roughly) double cleanse, exfoliate, add layers of toner followed by an essence, use a sheet mask, add a hydrating serum or ampoule, moisturise, apply some eye cream, work in face oil, and finally, wear your sunscreen.

I tried so hard to make this routine work, stocking up on sheet masks and hydrating toners, that I almost forgot I was a brown-toned woman living in a tropical city with environmental stressors. Somewhere beneath the layers of toner, I realised that ‘clear’ skin is mostly down to genetics.

“The concept of ‘glass skin,’ particularly when applied to Indian skin tones, necessitates a critical evaluation of prevailing beauty standards,” says Dr Nishita Ranka, dermatologist, medical director and founder of Dr Nishita’s Clinic for Skin, Hair & Aesthetics, Hyderabad. She stresses the need for a skincare ideology that is sustainable and achievable, and takes into consideration genetic and cultural differences.

What makes Indian skin tones different?

Indian skin tones are as diverse as the landscapes of our majestic country. Generally, experts say that Indian skin has a thicker epidermis than that of people from other regions, and is more prone to oiliness. “Indian skin, characterised by its abundant melanin [a pigment that determines hair and skin tone], presents unique dermatological challenges,” explains Ranka.

“Our skin tones are more prone to hyperpigmentation and uneven texture. Common concerns include enlarged pores, acne and dark facial hair. These differ from other ethnicities due to increased melanin production, leading to issues like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma,” adds Dr Niti Gaur, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Citrine Clinic, Gurugram.

The reality is, these skin concerns can’t be overcome with ampoules or a collagen sheet. Much like Icarus, my pursuit of glass skin left me more than a little burnt (The Ordinary’s AHA-BHA peel is no joke). But that didn’t mean a clearer, more even complexion wasn’t possible. I just needed to stop hydrating my skin more than I did my insides (it doesn’t help that I’m a facial sweater), and refocus on tackling my skin’s real issues, rather than following what I saw lighter-skinned folk doing on my phone.

So, is glass skin for brown skin an impossible ideal?

Sheesha ho ya dil ho, tooth jata hai. And this heartbreak might be a healthy one. Ranka says that for Indian skin tones, chasing the ‘glass skin’ ideal needs a rethink. Instead of striving for unattainable standards pushed by social media, let’s celebrate the diverse beauty of our skin types. Our focus should shift towards achieving healthy skin, keeping in mind the genetic tendencies of Indian skin, including its unique texture, colour and resilience.

Gaur says the focus should be on building a consistent and personalised skincare routine. “This may include gentle cleansing, targeted treatments for specific concerns, daily sun protection and regular exfoliation to maintain healthy and radiant skin.”

Something that you can sustain with ease. Skincare shouldn’t be a chore. It can be a moment of self-care, a fun hobby, or even night-time ritual with your sibling. Once you start focusing on your skin’s specific needs, and take into account environmental factors, stress, diet and exercise, you can achieve a clearer complexion — with or without glass skin.

When it comes to skin health, Ranka suggests we focus on the following:

• Skin barrier integrity: Slow down on exfoliants and product experimentation, and focus on ceramides, hydration and sun protection.
  
• Personalised dermatological care: Instead of borrowing routines from social media, get curious about your skin and opt for tailor-made skincare. For example, if you’re dealing with melasma, add pigment inhibitors to your routine. A consultation with a dermatologist can help you identify the right steps and ingredients for your skin.
  
• Comprehensive skin health: We need a wider perspective on skincare, with dietary, hydration and stress management practices serving as fundamental elements. What we put inside our bodies is as important as any product we use on it. Consulting a nutritionist can also help identify ingredients and produce that might trigger skin reactions and inflammation, as well as aggravate skin conditions like rosacea or dermatitis.

Ingredients that can help treat Indian skin issues

Laser treatments and chemical peels can be effective in tackling stubborn hyperpigmentation and dark facial hair. But according to Gaur, apart from these treatments, there are certain skincare ingredients can address common Indian skin concerns like enlarged pores, uneven skin tone and more.

She recommends niacinamide, vitamin C (we have a great guide), retinoids, and glycolic acid to help tackle these issues. But each should be used with caution and integrated into your skincare routine slowly, paying attention to how your skin reacts.

Let’s flip the script from chasing ‘glass skin’ to championing a healthy glow that celebrates the full spectrum of Indian skin tones. This new approach to skincare isn’t just about looking good; it’s about feeling great and arriving at a more inclusive definition of beauty.

A note of caution: This article is for educational purposes and contains personal experiences and inputs from trained experts. Please consult your healthcare provider to find what works best for you.