Do you need to jump on the bond repair hype train?
The experts will see you now
‘Bond repair’ sounds like a session reserved for the confidential confines of a therapist’s office (finding the right therapist can be like finding The One), replete with plush couches, soothing music, and gentle inquiries about one’s emotional well-being. But there’s no hair care brand out there that doesn’t feature at least one, if not a line of products featuring bond repair or some iteration of bond building.
The hair care industry has collectively assumed the role of a nurturing healer ready to engage in deep, meaningful conversations with each strand of hair about its life struggles and the traumas you put them through. Your hair is about to spill its deepest secrets about the damage done from years of heat tools, bleaching and tight buns, and bond repair is here to listen and fix it.
So, here we are, traversing the intriguing landscape of hair care therapy, where bond building isn’t merely about a pampering treatment; it’s an orchestrated effort to reconstruct and fortify the delicate bonds that make up the fabric of each hair strand.
We asked experts about how bond-building or repair products work, what we’re doing to make matters worse, and, more importantly, what is the bond that needs repairing (apart from that one friend you were afraid of confronting, so you ghosted her).
Bond repair hair care and how it works
What are hair bonds?
Dr Sahiba Mukkhatwala, a board-certified dermatologist in Faridabad, says hair bonds are like the architectural framework holding each strand together.
A hair strand is made up of three components, she explains: the medulla, followed by the cortex and cuticle.
“The ‘bond’ in hair bond repair refers to the disulfide bonds, which are strong chemical links between keratin proteins that give hair its structure and strength. These bonds are crucial for maintaining hair’s elasticity, manageability, and shine,” says Dr Sravya Tipirneni, consultant dermatologist, trichologist and cosmetologist at Manipal Hospital, Bengaluru.
How do the bonds get damaged?
“When hair is exposed to chemical treatments or stressors, these hair bonds can break and reduce the strand’s integrity,” says Mukkhatwala. She clarifies that by ‘chemical’ she doesn’t mean regular hair masks, shampoos or conditioners.
Bond repair treatments work on repairing the damage caused by hair straightening or perming treatments, dye and bleach, air pollution and UV damage, as well as brushing, combing, and tight hairstyles, which cause physical breakage, according to Tipirneni.
How do bond repair products work?
Bond repair hair care can work to some extent, says Tipirneni, “but their effectiveness depends on the severity of damage and the specific ingredients used.”
They’re formulated with ingredients that can penetrate the hair strand and strengthen weakened bonds at a cellular level. Some work from deep within the hair strands to repair the structural integrity, while others work externally to reinforce the bonds to improve elasticity and lustre.
Tipirneni says that some products contain ingredients like cysteine or bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, which can fix broken sulfur atoms in disulfide bonds. “Other products use antioxidants and conditioning agents to prevent further damage and strengthen existing bonds.”
Both experts explain that most bond repair products use ingredients that mimic the natural process of bond formation to make hair more resilient to damage and stress.
How to pick and use a bond repair product?
You’ll find bond repair products in a multitude of forms, including leave-in styling products, shampoos and masks, oils and serums. “The type of product you pick depends on the level of hair damage you have and also the needs of your hair type,” says Mukkhatwala. The best person to guide you would be a trained professional who can determine which product will benefit your hair most.
“People with fine hair might find leave-in products too heavy, weighing down their hair or making it sticky. So, for them, a shampoo or conditioner might be better suited. For people with very coarse or curly hair, a leave-in conditioner, serum or oil would be better than a wash-off product.”
Tipirneni breaks it down, saying we should look for products containing:
Bond-repairing ingredients: Cysteine, bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, or similar compounds.
Strengthening ingredients: Keratin, hydrolyzed proteins, and amino acids.
Nourishing ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, argan oil, coconut oil, and aloe vera.
Avoid harsh ingredients: Sulfates, parabens, and alcohols can further damage hair.
We often get lost in the sauce of a new product, anticipating results with each wash or use. But Mukkhatwala says that caution is the name of the game. “It varies from case to case, but they should not be used too frequently as it can cause a protein overload on your hair and kickstart a new series of issues.”
You’ll see results even if you space out the frequency with which you use hair bond-building products. Balance it with nourishing and moisturising products, or follow the steps given by your hair expert or doctor to reap the benefits of bond repair products.
What about a bond repair DIY treatment?
We all have that desi inclination when it comes to buying something; the instant thought, “Should I do this myself at home?”.
There’s ghar ke nuske for a variety of life’s problems, but when it comes to this, Tipirneni says the “effectiveness of DIY recipes and at-home keratin treatments for bond repair varies greatly. While some natural ingredients like honey or avocado oil can offer mild nourishment, they lack the targeted action of professional bond-repairing molecules. Be cautious of DIY recipes with harsh ingredients like vinegar or baking soda, which can cause further damage.”
Our favourite bond-building and repair products in India
Olaplex
Whether you’re a colour chameleon or a styling enthusiast, Olaplex is universally considered the gold standard when it comes to bond building, minimising damage and keeping your hair healthy. Each collection has a number, and while the most intense treatment is only available in salons, there are plenty of home maintenance products in their line.
If you’re a beginner, you can start with one of their combos that has products ranging from shampoo and conditioner to dry shampoo, leave-in creams and hair serums. But these will cost you some big bucks (₹ 1,700 onwards), but it’s a tried-and-tested method if you’re really considering investing in your hair health with some luxe products.
K18 Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask
If we were to look at it as a food chain, K18 is second in line when it comes to global popularity in this realm of hair care products, and it was recently launched in the Indian market.
It might look like your run-of-the-mill deep conditioner, but like Olaplex, they’ve formulated their own patented bioactive peptide to penetrate the hair shaft and work on repairing broken and compromised keratin bonds.
This one will cost you a pretty penny with a trial 5 ML tube for ₹1,080 and the 50 ML for ₹5,625, though these do last a long time (a little bit of product goes a very long way). Just make sure to Google how to properly use this product before jumping in.
Minimalist Maleic Bond Repair Complex
Using a patent-pending combination of maleic acid, transglutaminase and amino acids, the Minimalist serum quickly went viral on Indian social media after its release. The smell, however, is not for everyone.
Following the tremendously positive response, they launched the entire line, creating an easy routine for consumers to follow. That too at a more wallet-friendly price.
You can pick up the trio for ₹1,749, or pick one product you want to start with.
Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Collection
This specialised treatment line by Redken boasts a potent blend featuring a high concentration of citric acid (balances the product’s pH to a crucial 5.5, enhancing hair strength and repair) and a ‘bonding care complex’ formulated to address all the needs of your weakened hair structures.
We’re also suckers for the packaging. Something about running behind new shiny things…
Plum ProNexᵀᴹ Bond Restore Collection
Plum dropped their ProNexᵀᴹ Bond Restore collection last year, and we got another option of pocket-friendly bond-building hair care products. The products from this line are packed with a combination of ProCutiGen Bond and Fiberhance, blended with nourishing quinoa extract and shea oil.
This range might be better suited for people with a scalp and hair type that’s on the drier side or have extreme damage on their lengths.
A note of caution: This article is for educational purposes and contains inputs from trained experts. Please consult your healthcare provider to find the best treatment plan and products for your needs.
